Hiking Dude Blog

Took advantage of public buses and trains to get from Edinburgh to a suburb of Glasgow called Milngavie to find the start of the West Highland Way. Many backpacks got off the train and started up the trail after all the selfies, but we had a quick subway sandwich lunch and then started hiking north at noon. Very busy trail for the first 4 miles closer to town with hikers, runners, and bikers, but it soon thinned out.

Forecast is over 1.5 inches of rain over the next few days, but today we only had a few cloud bursts and many stretches of spotty sun.

An easy 12 miles to Drymen Camping where we set up at around 5pm. We weren't sure where we'd stop today, but it had started to rain just as we reached this campground and they had one spot left so we took it.

We spent a few hours chatting with other hikers from Germany, Belgium, and England and that was the highlight of the day. There was also a begging chicken that is used to pecking up bits of food that campers drop, so she kept us company while we made our dinner.

There really wasn't much in the way of sights or scenery - lots of forest, rolling hills, and bigger hills on the distance. A lot of sheep, some cows, and narrow country roads made for a nice walk. We also picked a few blackberries as we walked between fields along an often very muddy trail.

Check out my current location on the map.

August 21-23 I'll tell you what - hiking is a lot easier than traveling!

These few days between hikes were intended to travel to the next trailhead, explore a few cities, and most importantly rest up. I guess we accomplished all that, but figuring out public transport, coordinating departure, arrival, check-in, and checkout times, and fixing places for improvement in my previous planning upped the stress level. Luckily, Mrs. Dude is calm under that kind of pressure and everything worked out fine.

August 21 - Great night of comfortable rest! It was nice to be in beds. I slept over 8 hours! We had this whole day to explore.

We took a bus to a Sami outdoor museum to pet raised reindeer and learn about the local indigenous population. Sad that it seems to have many similarities to American and Australian (and I imagine many more planes) indigenous history stories.

We enjoyed a nice lunch of reindeer stew, and moose/pork sausage stew.

Also, walked through the oldest church in Lappland.

We walked down the road to the famous Ice Hotel with no ice this time of year. Not much to see.

A highlight was meeting three boys (about 10 yrs old) walking home from school, tearing apart a math workbook. One of them was a real chatter box and spoke great English. He said it was his old book and he's getting his next one tomorrow. They told us that they go fishing and the types of fish they catch.

When we got back to Kiruna, we borrowed two old clunker bikes from the hostel and rode to an ATM to get cash to pay for it stay. Then, bought some food for a light dinner at a grocery store. Then, checked in a sports store for new hiking shoes for Mrs. Dude since hers are not as waterproof as she wants and the forecast is currently for days of rain on Scotland. (No luck on the shoes)

August 22 - Plane to Stockholm. Took train to Upsala North of the airport but the ticket guy said to get on the wrong train which headed south to Stockholm. So, we explored Stockholm for the afternoon. Found new boots for Mrs. Dude. Toured Sweden National Museum. Stayed at Airbnb in strange no-personnel hotel building right at the airport for our very early flight tomorrow.

August 23 -

Early plane to Edinburgh. Explored Edinburgh all day. A big 'Fringe' event was going on so it was very crowded. Toured Scotland National Museum and the new parliament building. I loved the old architecture and buildings reminding of Harry Potter, Mary Poppins, and 101 Dalmatians. Stayed at Airbnb home of a young Lithuanian man which was nice and quiet

August 20 - Very short 2 mile hike to Nikkaloukta on wide, flat walk through scrubby birch forest with mushrooms of all sizes and colors.

We reached Nikkaloukta at 8am with 4 hours to wait for our bus ride back to Kiruna. Fortunately, the trail ends right at a restaurant that opens at 8am so we snacked on their buffet for 3 hours. Fruit, rolls, bread, granola, cheese, salami, berry jams, hard boiled eggs, juice, coffee, yogurt.

The last hour, we walked up s small hill to see a church and a police helicopter just happened to be taking off below us to head up into the mountains. Of course, there's no rain now so we could see the mountain range.

Bus ride was 90 uneventful minutes on a very comfortable bus with wifi. We walked to the 'Yellowhouse' hostel where we'll stay 2 nights. It's old, inexpensive, and just a comfortable place to rest.

We found a small restaurant called Pub Eden where we had a dinner of reindeer carpaccio (we had to look up what it was after we ordered it) and a sausage pizza. Both were very tasty.

Rest day tomorrow and then working our way over to Scotland.

August 19 - Yet more rain when we woke up so we stayed in the tent until noon when the rain finally took a short break. We have 2 days to do the last 12 miles, so there's no hurry, the rain is supposed to stop, and there is plenty of light to hike later.

We packed up and walked 1/4 mile to the Kebnekaise mountain station which is actually a huge resort with 200 rooms, restaurant, and shop. We enjoyed a great lunch buffet with reindeer, chicken curry, rice, corn, quinoa, and juice. We really took advantage of the stop and their wifi.

We met a Danish couple and two French hikers while relaxing after lunch in a common room waiting for the rain to give up. Another hiker noticed the scouting emblem on my hat and asked about it. Turns out he was a scout in Hong Kong but has lived most of his life in Australia. He was in a group of 10 we had passed yesterday that are hiking hut to hut.

Around 3:30, we finally hiked from Kebnekaise mountain station down the last of the trail out of the mountains.

Because there was no rain this evening, we finally had the opportunity to choose a camping site that looked good to us and have time to set up the tent and relax. We found a flat sandy spot right beside a river. We are camped two miles away from our bus stop in the morning where we will board a bus to Kiruna. We are going to stay in a hostel for two nights and have a chance to wash clothes and check out the area before we fly to Stockholm and then on to Edinburgh.

This bridge leaving the mountain station had stickers pasted on it, so.... can you find mine?

Check out my current location on the map.

August 18 - We've been hiking South for four days with the wind nearly constantly blowing strongly into our face. Today, we continued South to Singi Fjallstuga (Singi mountain station) where our route split off from the Kungsleden to take us east.

We climbed up about 500 meters to a low pass into the next valley, and of course the wind now blasted from the east!

In the morning, we had a mother and baby reindeer walk right across the trail. Later in the day, we saw 4 more up on the pass. So, we've seen our share of reindeer - no other animals though.

We saw many beautiful waterfalls and everyone on the trail is drinking water straight from the streams. We filtered the first day, but now have been taking our chances from small streams tumbling down off of high, empty mountain tops.

We met a great young swedish family and drilled them with tons of built up questions about animals, wild berries, the tundra, and much more we had been wondering about.

Our longest hike so far at 16 miles, we just kept walking and passing possible campsites until we reached the Kebnekaise mountain station area and stopped just outside their 'no camping' boundary. We were able to hike all day with no rain, but it started raining just as we began to set up our tent. We climbed in and again cooked our meal in our tent vestibule.

August 17 - We hiked over the highest pass on the trail today, so it's all downhill from here.

The first 3 days were hiking up a long valley and now we'll be hiking down another one until we turn east and climb up a small pass into a different valley. At least the Swedes didn't throw in a bunch of PUDs on this trail.

Another day of on and off rain. We took refuge for 90 minutes in a mountain station to have our lunch and warm up. We meet a guy from Denmark, 2 Swedes, and two sisters from Belgium who are hiking the entire trail. It is over 400km, we're only hiking about 100km.

Just as we were arriving at the mountain station, a helicopter landed and took a woman out of the mountains. The station host said there was no injury, just some crazy argument between two hiking partners and they decided they were done and wanted a ride out. It supposedly cost them over 10,000 euros! That's the story we were told anyway.

The many boardwalks gave way to a few miles of very rocky trail, especially over the pass. We did see a dozen reindeer in the morning on the hillside quite far away.

With rain threatening, we found ourselves approaching Salka Fjallstuga (Salka mountain station). Rather than pressing on and searching for a flat spot, we are talking advantage of a huge area of free camp sites and pit toilets. And, since we stopped it has been raining occasionally so we're dry in our tent.

We hiked about 12.5 miles today.

August 16 - Extremely windy all night and I slept very poorly. We woke to heavy rain so we stayed in the tent until it stopped around 10. Hiking from 10:30 to noon was fine but then the rain returned for about 3 hours making the day slower and dreary.

We stopped at our first mountain hut to warm up a bit. Pretty nice places, but quite expensive. I'll tell you about the helicopter 'rescue' later.

We saw many of the same people hiking that we met yesterday on trail. We also saw quite a few ptarmigan along the trail across the tundra. They seem about as smart as grouse. We also spied a few reindeer and hope to see more tomorrow.

Around 4:30, drizzling rain resumed and the sky looked ominous ahead, so we found a spot and stopped for the night. It is again chilly and very windy, but the sky has cleared and will hopefully usher in a sunny day tomorrow. Our camp spot is great and there is no one else across the open tundra.

The trail had many more boardwalks today. The rest is often rocky from so much use, but easy to follow. There are also many cells with raised wooden bridges and an occasional metal suspension bridge over rivers. We only covered about 10 miles today.

August 15 - Our Airbnb host gave us a ride to the Kiruna bus station and we took the 90 minute bus to Abisko on the skinniest of pages roads. We noticed that the terrain looked very much like Northern Minnesota in the iron range.

At the starting location, we took a detour to explore a demo Sami village - interesting sod houses and food storage. Then, we started hiking South on the Kungsleden (King's Trail) at 10:30.

As luck would have it, our first day of hiking south was also the final day for an event having 1,700 people hiking north. We got plenty of practice with the Swedish version of saying 'Hi' as we past others on the trail. It's 'Hej' which sounds just like 'Hi', but sometimes they say it twice.

We were planning to hike 9 miles so that we would clear the border of a national Park which had no camping. Once or on public land, you can set up your tent pretty much anywhere.

Just outside the national park boundary, a group of event support staff was serving swedish pancakes for their hikers but they had a ton left. So, we got to have a pancake with blueberries and whipped cream for a very unexpected snack. Since it was still early, we decided to hike farther.

We are camped out on the barren tundra with no one around. We set up our new tent and got water and had shepherd's pie for dinner. At 9:00, we were all cleaned up and settled into our tent and it was still light out. Since we are in the land of the midnight sun above the Arctic circle, it never gets completely dark at night.

Some things that were interesting - only a few birds and no animals, miles of boardwalk on the trail, diversity of hikers we've met. South Carolina, Germany, Sweden, Poland.

Check out my current location on the map.

(My tracking app that was supposed to be dropping notes to this blog isn't working. So, we're actually at the end of our 4th day of hiking and have a little coverage. The tracking map link shows our progress)

8/13-14: Left MSP at 7:45pm on IcelandAir to Reykjavik. Slept fitfully for most of the 6 hour flight. Had passport check in the most understaffed, poorly signed, chaotic airport experience since Tanzania and then barely caught our connection.

Barely is an understatement - we were the final two to reach the gate, get a personal recalled bus out to the plane on the tarmac, and had the flight attendant say 'Boarding Complete' as soon as we stepped aboard.

Our next connection at Stockholm was polar opposite. What a beautiful relaxing facility! Plenty of time, clean, lots of signage and displays, and few people.

Our Airbnb host met us at the airport in Kiruna and we enjoyed our quick tour through town to his home. We got a canister of gas for our camp stove so we're all set to hike tomorrow.

The highlight for me was a mile walk to a restaurant called Spill. We had a mini meatloaf made of elk and a bowl of pasta with smoked reindeer in a creamy sauce. Such good, strong flavors!

Showers back at the Airbnb and we could no longer keep our eyes open after about 18 hours of travel.

Hiking tomorrow!

• Shelter - I've been very happy with my Bearpaw Wilderness Designs shelter but, after sooo many years of use, the zipper is becoming obstinate. Also, since we're definitely going to be having plenty of moisture on this trip, it tends to sag, dropping condensation through the mesh net underneath. That's just the way silnylon works, but Mrs. Dude wants a change.
  TarpTent has a shelter called the Stratospire Ultra made from something they call Ultra TNT laminate - think of DCF (or cuben fiber) but cheaper. Completely waterproof, no sag, and can set up in the rain while keeping the inside dry - so says the advertising. So, I got one and we're testing it out for about 30 days. Hopefully, they won't all be rainy days, right? :-)
  
  PS: When ordering this shelter, THE Henry Shires called me back when I asked a question on tarptent.com. Not fanboying here, but it was cool to have the prez of the company contact a customer, wouldn't you agree?
  
  
• Sleeping - My DIY quilts have been wonderful as far as I'm concerned. I've really wanted to make my own down quilt, but my wife just fell in love with ZenBivy's online presence. With their specs and prices, it was hard to justify making my own, so we both have new down quilts rated to 0F degrees. We'll see how well we can mix down and rain.
  
  
• Rain Gear - I've been a disposable poncho and garbage bag rain skirt guy for the past decade. It's worked fine on my long hikes, but did I say we're expecting at least a week of solid rain? So, I got a new poncho that's more substantial, AND a set of ultralight Frogg Toggs rain jacket and pants.
  It's redundant, and any UL folks will cringe at the extra weight, but I'm just trying them out, ok? I'll throw the poncho over me and my pack if there's light rain and just use the rain suit if it looks like a heavy, sustained rain or cold weather.
  
  So, when I get home, I'll let you know how the gear worked. While we're on the trails, I've got my tracking device and hope to blog when there's coverage. Check in once in a while over the next 5 weeks to see what's up.
  
  Hike On!
  
  Now, I just have my fingers crossed that this trip goes better than my Seven Devils 'hike' earlier this summer. :-)